Singapore

Having left the apartment at 7am for the 9:05 flight to Singapore (via a very busy Rome airport!) we arrived just as the sun was coming up. 
  

   
 
We decided a taxi to our hotel was preferable to the 45 minutes wait for the airport shuttle! 

After a small negotiation we were able to check in to our room shortly after 8, following a quick pit stop for cookies and coconut water at the nearest petrol station! 
        
After a short sleep, still weary and a little grumpy (!) we headed to Chinatown. Just past a beautifully coloured temple we stumbled across the Maximilian Hawker Centre. Teeming with Chinese we decided this was as good a place as any! 

  
After a quick look round Chinatown we were both pretty tired so headed back for another nap!

In the evening we met up with one of Oliver’s friends who now lives in a swanky apartment overlooking the bay. Three other backpackers on their return stopover in toe, we ate at the best place for satay chicken in singapore- right in the middle of the financial district where they close the street at weekends. 

  
  
Sunday morning, after a quick stop for ice kopi…

  
…already boiling…We went to the Gardens by the Bay. Really impressive! 

 
Then the storm came in…  
 
  

I enjoyed the kids play area too! 

   
   
Then a curry lunch in Little India before going back to pick up our bags and off to the airport. Next stop KK! 

   
 

Panama Canal, Panama City

Yesterday I went to the Panama Canal to see what all the fuss was about! After a frustrating bus journey – I bought a travel pass which only gets the money on after 3 days; then that one I can’t use on the bus to the canal; then I arrived as the 10 o’clock bus was pulling out of the terminal and the next bus was not until 11- I finally arrived at Miraflores.

I had planned to get there before 11am which is when all the ships line up to go through the locks. But after the bus fiasco I missed that!

Luckily though, having looked around the museum, there was a boat going through just as I left.

Santa Catalina, Panama

Chasing the sun, we returned to the Pacific Coast.

Monday morning we got up to dive! I didn’t end up diving but I went out on the boat anyway.

After the first dive we stopped on the most beautiful island for a break.

In the afternoon we lazed on the beach over on the other side of the bay.

Little did we know, the ride rose quite dramatically in the evening!

Feeling lazy, we managed to hitch hike the half hour walk back into town with two Americans!

Just in time to see the sun set by the hostel.

Jitteke headed off to the big City the following day, and I spent a couple of days in the surf before following her to Panama City.

Boquete Panama: fresh mountain air!

Having been sick for the last couple of days in Bocas del Toro, I was glad to arrive back in the mountains! It was a long ride from Bocas: 4 hours to David then another 1 hour to Boquete. I arrived and checked into the first hostel I spotted before sleeping for a few hours!

Feeling a little rejuvenated after some chicken soup, I met up with Jitteke again to plan the next few days.

Today we took the bus to the Baños Thermales in Caldera. After about 45 minutes on the bus we saw the sign and then after another 45 minutes walk along a dirt track we saw some hammocks strung up and heard families laughing. We were lucky not to share the hot springs with anyone but a Panamanian family who were very kind, explaining that we should go into the hot pools (40 degrees!) for three minutes, then the cold for three minutes and repeat four times! That’s when the healing powers kicked in. Good!

The hot springs were just in the back garden of a local family…

… Their chickens and goats just roaming about!

In the afternoon we ventured up hill to the top of the town for the famous Gesha coffee. It’s the world’s second most expensive coffee at $300/kg, coming in after the civet cat coffee.

We ordered one to share (at $9 a pot there was definitely enough to share!)

One of the owners was in the shop and came and talked to us while we enjoyed the coffee. She told us how her grandfather had been a coffee picker and her grandmother had suggested they start their own business. So they started growing regular coffee, always using Gesha coffee but mixing it with other varieties. It was only 10 years ago that someone taster Gesha on it’s own, and since then Gesha coffee has grown! The Asians love it (what a surprise) and it’s imported in the UK only by Harrods and Fortnum & Mason.

I must say it was delicious. The lady said it is almost like a herbal tea. And it is! Very fresh, with no bitter taste. And citrusy…delicious!

Walking back to town the sky was on fire.

Tomorrow, I go in search of the sun again!

Bocas del Toro Panama

The final day in Costa Rica I spent in Puerto Viejo. We biked from Puerto Viejo round to Punta Uva, eyes in the trees searching for those sloths again. And we were in luck!

Next morning I set off for Bocas del Toro, my first stop in Panama.

It’s a little collection of islands, not far at all from the Costa Rican border.

Unfortunately when we arrived it was a little wet.

We took the boat to the main island, Isla Colón, where we stayed for a couple of nights. We went to starfish beach where you can spot starfish on the shore just under the water. The next day we rented a kayak and went over to Isla Bastimentos. We’d been told there was a nice snorkel spot but we didn’t manage to locate it! We had a nice swim all the same and some amazing nachos!

In the evening we had arranged to do a wreck night dive. Such a nice dive and to top it off we spotted an octopus!

The next day we went to stay on Isla Bastimentos on Red Frog Beach.

Unfortunately no red frogs to be seen, just a lot of rain! Needless to say, Bocas has not been my favourite place so far!

Costa Rica: Cahuita National Park

I spent the day in the Cahuita National Park. It’s right next to the beach so you can hear the sea all the time. It’s possible to follow the trail from Cahuita all the way round the peninsula to the next town – about 8 kms.

As soon as we entered the park we spotted howler monkeys in the trees.
The park wasn’t too busy with tourists so we were lucky with our wildlife spotting!

The anteater came right up close to us on the path.

Being so close to the sea, there were tonnes of crabs: bright blue and orange.

A guide had spotted a sloth, too. It was such a baby I don’t think we would have spotted it on our own.

When we got to the other end we took the bus back into Cahuita for lunch and then went to Playa Negra this afternoon. Huge waves and almost deserted!

Costa Rica: Monteverde Cloud Forest, ziplining and waterfalls

Monday morning I headed to the Monteverde Reserve with two girls I had met at another hostel. We left early enough to beat the tourists, or so we thought! There were still a lot of people about. We were advised with the time we had to do two trails; one about 2 hours long and the other about an hour.

Before entering the reserve we made a quick visit to the Hummingbird Garden.

The reserve is beautiful. It is very touristy but you can tell that the most important thing is the nature preservation.

This always fills me with confidence…

We were lucky to see lots of wildlife: lots of birds and butterflies, an anteater, a raccoon, snakes and my favourite- the elusive quetzal. It’s the national bird of Guatemala so I’ve been looking out for it for almost two months!

After a quick lunch the adventure began! I zip lined, super manned and Tarzan swung myself over the top of the jungle!! It was so scary but so much fun. I loved it!

Today was more relaxed! Jitteke and I took the bus to the waterfalls 11km from Tilaran. They’re on a private property and when we arrived we were the only two people in the whole place.

They are absolutely immense. The tallest one is over 100ft tall. So we were truly dwarfed by them.

It was so peaceful and so nice to be the only people there.

We thought we were the only people anyway, so rather than carry our shoes we decided to leave them on a bench. Only to return less than an hour later and they had disappeared. We were both convinced the other had hidden them! But no! We asked a few people but no one knew where they were and just laughed at us…how can two pairs of shoes disappear?! We had to walk back to the entrance – a good half hour over stones and gravel – where we asked again. Oh yes, they say, we thought you’d forgotten them.

Pura vida!

Tomorrow I’m going to Puerto Viejo, near the border to Panama, in search of the three toed sloth.

Costa Rica: Liberia to Monteverde

I began my trip from Managua to Costa Rica on Saturday morning. It didn’t start well: I left my towel in the hostel (with only 3 weeks to go, how annoying) and then having thought I was in plenty of time for the 8.30 bus, I realised I had misread the lonely planet and the bus was leaving as I arrived at the bus station!

On the bus I was assured that yes, chica, the bus was directo to the border, only to be told after 10 minutes waiting in Rivas that I had to change!

So far so good…

Next…the border. As soon as I was off the bus vultures descended. It’s been the same at every border crossing so really I should be used to it. But having not slept well and being the only gringo in sight they managed to scam me out of $6 for a piece of paper you’re given at immigration anyway! (And yes, I know $6 doesn’t sound much, but considering a nights accommodation doesn’t cost much more I felt robbed!)

Cue tears and frustration at the immigration desk! I was rescued by Jessica, a lovely Costa Rican woman who also happened to be going to the same town as me.

I arrived in Liberia tired and weary but since I only had a few hours before leaving early the next morning I decided to make the most of it.

I went to a small restaurant run by a local cooperative, giving employment to women in the town. The food was delicious and the ladies really sweet.

The town was nothing special; the usual Parque Central and church.

The next morning, to add injury to insult I was up for the 6am bus to La Irma. But I was then told it left at 6.30, then 6.45. When I then asked at 7 where it was I was told it had left at 6.30. So on the 7.45 bus I was… Which meant I missed the connecting bus to Monteverde by about 5 minutes. With the next bus not until 3.30pm (it was only 9.35) there was nothing holding me back! Without thinking I run up to a 4×4, and ask Dad and two sons to pursue the bus. Challenge accepted we raced along the roads in hot pursuit of the bus!

Luck was with us and about 20 minutes later we caught up with the bus!

Safely on the bus the road up to Monteverde had stunning views.

That evening I joined a night walk tour. The guide was amazing, pointing so much out to us.

It’s a sloth – I promise!
This frog you can only find in Costa Rica.

Mum, Ella, look away now!

Little Corn: a hidden gem!

Yet another early start to catch the morning flight to Big Corn.
A quick boat ride over to Little Corn and we were transported to this tiny Caribbean island, with no roads, no cars, just peace! Well deserved after my double volcano extravaganza I like to think!

The island is just one mile square, so everyone knows everybody. The people are all so happy. You can’t walk along the path without someone stopping to say hello and have a little chat!

Kelly started dive school so I was left to my own devices to make new friends. I’d like to introduce Evan…

He was far more interested playing with my camera rather than going to school. When he arrived at school by way of Rachel-piggy-back the teacher was less than surprised…it seems to be a daily occurrence!

Yesterday there was excitement on the beach. First off a dead fish washed up, which then attracted a nurse shark right to the waters edge. Then later washes up an eel.

After a thorough investigation (!) it turns out the boys had been fishing and decided the eel wasn’t worth the hassle and had thrown it back in!

After a delicious meal at the Turned Turtle (their piña coladas are the best on the island!) it was time to say goodbye to Kelly today.

Back to the shack that is the airport- no high tech X-ray security, just a man who opens your bag and asks if you have any banned items!

Then the short flight back to Managua, where I’m staying the night before crossing the border to Costa Rica tomorrow.

Isla de Ometepe

I arrived in Moyogalpa on Sunday afternoon to a very sleepy town.

Monday morning and everyone in my hostel was travelling towards San Juan de Sur, so as tempted as I was to return there I knew there must be things to see!

I hired a bike from the hostel planning to cycle to Punta Jesus Maria, a sand bar which I had heard was beautiful. On the way there I biked over the airstrip! High security!

I got to the Punta Jesus Maria and was a bit disappointed. It was just a strip of sand with rubbish!

Nice views though!

I decided to carry on to a town called San José where I found a nice spot by the lake: hammock and smoothie included!

Locals came down to water their cattle and wash their horses.

The following day I was up at the crack of dawn to climb Volcán Concepcion. I had read that it was hard but I don’t think I had quite realised what I had let myself in for. The first 2 hours were fine, climbing through the forest. We then emerged from the forest to a spectacular view.

What concerned me was the view up…that’s where we were headed!

For the next 2 hours we scrambled up the volcano over loose rocks and lava. I thought I wasn’t going to make it to the top- of course I was stubborn enough in the end!

The summit wasn’t quite what I’d expected. It’s always shrouded in thick cloud so you can hardly see a couple of meters in front.

The way down was just as hard and slow as the way up. You had to concentrate so hard so as not to tumble all the way!

Eight hours later we made it back to the bottom. A long day!

Of course one volcano was not enough! Back in Moyogalpa I met Kelly and we made plans for the next one. Wednesday morning we took the bus to Finca Magdalene, which is a little cooperative farm just at the bottom of the Volcán Madéras trail.

We arrived in time to see the farmers coming off the land to dry the grain…

and a little bit of coffee (although the coffee harvest doesn’t begin in earnest for another couple of weeks).

The farm was very beautiful and peaceful, if a little basic – a barn with camp beds! But with stunning views over to Volcán Concepcion.

A perfect spot for sunset beers!

The next morning, legs aching from Tuesday, we set out for Madéras. This side of the island is more tropical, so more rain, making for a pretty slippery climb!

In the crater is a very cold, dirty lake! Of course Kelly and I went for a dip!

I regretted the swim – shivering for the next half hour!

Again it was a slow descent, mostly slipping and grabbing at foliage! We made it down before sunset and thankfully before the rain came!

Another early morning this morning to catch the bus back to Moyogalpa for the ferry back to San Jorge. We’ve now headed back up to Managua to catch the early flight to the Corn Islands tomorrow.